The idea of a city break can seem something of an oxymoron to Londoners.

After a week of wrestling with fellow commuters for a seat on a crowded Tube, a weekend break must surely, by definition, entail escape from the congestion, pollution and frustration of urban life?

And yet, we city-dwellers tend to have difficulty leaving it all behind, finding ourselves at a loss in sleepy backwaters, longing for a gin and tonic in a noisy London bar.

This is why I have always loved Edinburgh.

In the three years I lived there, while studying at the university, it never failed to amaze me how you could be shopping in Top Shop one minute, and climbing a hill the next. For, towering above the city is Arthur's Seat, in Holyrood Park, offering the urban-weary a genuine escape from it all within a short walk of the city centre.

It is this park which will be the setting for the IAAF World Cross Country Championships later this month. Entry to the main event is strictly by selection only, with representatives from at least 76 countries expected to take part. But on Sunday, March 30 runners of all ages and capabilities are invited to join in the World 5km Road Race and organisers are keen to stress that it's not just for an athletic elite.

Having climbed the hill in many a vain attempt to clear a hangover, I had my doubts, however. So earlier this month I headed back to Edinburgh to try the course for myself.

Dusting off my trainers for the first time since renouncing my gym membership an embarrassing 18 months ago, I reluctantly agreed to enter the BUPA Great Winter Run in January, which follows the same route as the 5km road race. I say "run". Admittedly much of the uphill leg was more of a power-walk in my case. And I may have stopped once or twice to enjoy the stunning views across the Forth Estuary - before taking the downhill homeward straight at a brisk jog.

Whether you're a serious runner or a wheezing desk-dweller, the rocky outcrop known as Haggis Knowe is certainly a challenging climb. But if you're going to run 5km, I can't think of anywhere better to do it. Spurring runners on in the road race on March 30, there will also be traditional pipers and local bands, as well as an estimated 10,000 spectators.

It is 30 years since Scotland last hosted the world cross country championships, in Glasgow in 1978. And, with the event around the corner, Edinburgh is keen to promote itself as a city for outdoor enthusiasts. So, energised by my rare burst of athleticism, I went to find out what else it had to offer, at the Edinburgh International Climbing Arena, Ratho.

The centre recently underwent a £6 million refurbishment and, at 2,400 metres square, is the largest indoor climbing arena in the world. Reopening after the refit last May, it was awarded five-star status by Visit Scotland, the Scottish tourist board.

Set in the Ratho Quarry, the centre boasts three climbing walls with more than 200 routes and the world's largest aerial assault course, as well as a dedicated bouldering room. It is an adrenalin addict's dream. And if climbing indoors is not enough of a thrill, it offers outdoor rock climbing and mountaineering packages on the rock faces of the Cairngorms and ice of Ben Nevis.

For those of us a little less seasoned to heights, the place can seem rather intimidating. (The startling number of under-10s scaling the walls with apparent fearlessness doesn't help.) But there are start-up courses run by experienced climbers and plenty of trained supervisors around. The centre also has a gym and spa with sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi if it all gets too much.

Of course, by this stage you'll undoubtedly be ready for that gin and tonic. And in the past few years, I was pleased to discover, a host of fabulous new bars and restaurants have sprung up in Edinburgh. Among them, the laid-back Outsider, on George IV Bridge, offers excellent food in an ambient, contemporary setting, with low-level lighting.

For a darker night out, try the Mercat ghost tours on the Royal Mile, and discover the city's murderous past. Or, if you're partial to a wee dram, the Whisky Heritage Centre allows you to sample some of Scotland's finest.

Whisky and ghosts aside, culture, arts and architecture is what makes Edinburgh the deserving capital city it is.

But if you're looking for a city break, which is also a break from the city, this is where it's at.

  • The world cross country championships takes place on Saturday, March 29 and Sunday, March 30. For more information and entry details for the World 5km Road Race, visit www.edinburgh2008.org

Places to stay

  • Budget: Smartcityhostels, Blackfriars Street. An excellent value 5* hostel with twin rooms, doubles and dorms, all en-suite. Book well ahead, especially during festival season. Beds from £13.50pp
  • Mid-price: Point Hotel, Bread Street. A stylish, contemporary 3* hotel with stunning views of the castle. Standard rooms from £145, B&B
  • Luxury: The Glasshouse, Greenside Place. Luxury 5* boutique hotel boasting the only rooftop garden in Edinburgh. Doubles from £115

Places to eat

  • The Outsider, George IV Bridge Fresh, inspired food in a relaxed, ambient setting. Average price for a two-course meal: £15. Tel: 0131 226 3131
  • Howies, Victoria Street. Upmarket food at reasonable prices. Average price of two-course meal: £16.50

Other attractions

  • Mercat Tours - the vaults tour: Discover Edinburgh's underground passages - and the ghosts that are said to haunt them.

Outdoor activities

EICA Ratho is the world's largest indoor climbing arena. Open from 10am to 10pm Monday to Friday and 10am to 7pm Saturday and Sunday.