It was heartbreak for Welling Royal Marine Gary "Frankie" Francis as he was forced to abandon his attempt to climb Everest for the second time in three years. He spoke to chief reporter LINDA PIPER from the Himalayas.

SPEAKING from Tillman's Camp at 5,600m, Colour Sergeant Francis said he felt physically great but was "pretty devastated" mentally at having to turn around just 850m away from the top.

He was one of a nine-member Army team aiming to be the first British climbers to ascend Everest by the difficult and dangerous west ridge.

With a window of fine weather, they had hoped to make the summit in the early hours of May 20 but the discovery of a "wind slab" unstable snow which could trigger an avalanche at any time led to the reluctant decision to abandon the attempt.

For the former Bexleyheath School pupil, it was his second Everest disappointment.

He was was just an hour from success in 2003, while climbing the north-east ridge route, when his Royal Navy and Royal Marines' expedition was diverted on a rescue mission.

About to make the final push to the summit, they went to the aid of a British climber who had broken his leg and an Australian with snow blindness and severe frostbite.

In the greatest of ironies, he said: "The guy we rescued three years ago was back this year and he summited on May 16.

"I received an email from his wife thanking me and the old team for helping him."

Before the discovery of the wind slab, he said: "The four of us were feeling really good and felt sure we would summit that next morning."

But he said: "The snow we were moving on was getting more and more unstable and it got to a point where it was just too dangerous to continue."

Once they hit the wind slab, both summit groups returned to Tillman's Camp to decide whether to try again.

The 36-year-old added: "I did say I would be prepared to go back up to check the snow again.

"In my eyes, even a very small chance of a change in the snow conditions was worth another look.

"However, it was deemed too risky by the team leader.

"Obviously, people's ideas of risk vary greatly and maybe I was prepared to push it further than some."

Now he fears his Everest dream may be over.

He said: "I doubt if I will be lucky enough to get onto a third military expedition as I don't think anyone else will try for quite a while."

But he did confess he might even consider doing a commercial climb to the top, saying: "I may well end up putting my hand in my pocket and going on a commercial expedition but I doubt it would come close to the two I have done with my military mates."

On the same weekend they abandoned their climb, they could see dozens of climbers who had paid for the trip reaching the summit.

But Mr Francis said: "Seeing others get to the top on the easier routes doesn't bother me at all. We have also seen almost 20 people die.

"We knew our route only stood a slim chance of success because it is a proper climbers' route.

"Only a handful have done it and it depends massively on the weather."

The Army team is now stripping all its equipment from the mountain.

Mr Francis said: "It is important we leave behind as little as possible."

They are due to fly home on June 10 and Mr Francis will return to work in Poole with the Royal Marines.

He will also be reunited with his wife Diane and sons Scott, 10 and Brent, seven, who have shared his bitter disappointment.

They are planning a three-week holiday in Australia.