The genius of a world-calibre chef has begun to rain hard on South Croydon's pub-life, and may the storm clouds never clear!

The bright green doors of the Earl of Eldon on Brighton Road swung open to reveal Mark Dixie, a few of his favourite kitchen gadgets, and a very bland day outside just a few weeks ago.

Mark has spent years cooking all over the world, including eight-and-a-half in Australia. When he strolled into their kitchen, set down his knives, put on his pinny he became the trump card for landlord and lady Scott Plomer and Eileen Shelock.

Mark describes his cooking as "real food" fresh, tasty, creative, good-looking, fast-changing and abundant (the plates are about a foot long).

The style is predominantly traditional, but with a modern twist. For example last week his most popular offering was liver, bacon and onions in a rich madeira gravy, with maris piper mash and seasonal veg.

He said: "It's great to be able to bring cheffing alive again in pubs, which I think is something which has died."

His overwhelming excitement about cooking and seeing people really enjoying their food has been nurtured in Australian bistro's, where he says the standard of eating is excellent.

He added: "They wouldn't dream of serving up something which had been previously frozen.

"I buy everything as fresh as I need it from Surrey Street market, and I'm getting to know the market sellers, who I know are very intrigued by what I'm making with their produce.

"I hope to see them bring their families to find out."

Eileen and Scott say it is a real pleasure to serve Mark's food to their customers and watch them doze off with a smile on their faces after they've eaten.

When asked how they do it prices have not been hiked proportionately with the quality of the food they say they are lucky to have the support of their brewery Green King.

Scott said: "Our brief was to come in and raise the profile of the food and give our regulars more choice.

"A lot of pubs would like to offer their customers a choice but they are restricted by turnover, or will be tied to a certain supplier.

"But we are very lucky because our regional manager has given us the scope to make the improvements.

"If Green King hadn't allowed us to make a go of it the community would probably have lost this pub."

He says Green King is very community pub driven, so we should continue to see a traditional pub atmosphere complete with charity events, familiar faces and good beer.

And although the specials change daily (cost around £5.50), if you fancy the same one you had last week, Mark will do his best to recreate the experience on the spot.

If the luscious butterflied chicken breast in cajun spices, grilled on a base of fettucine with a light mushroom and shallot sauce isn't on the menu next time I visit, I might just be making a special request.

Food served Monday to Friday lunchtime, noon to 2.30pm, evenings 6pm to 9pm, Saturday and Sunday noon to 4pm. Children welcome with families only when food ordered.

The Earl of Eldon, Brighton Road (corner of Junction Road, opposite Whitgift School), South Croydon. Tel: 020 8688 1473.

December 5, 2001 17:00