WHEN the British tour market first converged on the largest of the four Balearic Islands it proved to be a bit of a tongue twister, so much so the spelling was changed to Majorca, reports Jeannine Williamson.

These days you're far more likely to see it written as Mallorca, but whilst the pronunciation remains the same it's a sign that other things have changed too. This particularly applies if you have a stereotypical image of the island or, like me, hazy recollections of that first teenage holiday spent abroad with friends rather than parents.

As I sipped a glass of fine Cabernet Sauvignon against the scenic backdrop of the island's Son Bordils wine estate, which dates back to the 15th century, it was about as far removed as I could get from the sangria fuelled parties in grotty nightclubs all those years ago. You'll still find wall-to-wall bars and chips-with-everything cafes in Magaluf, but if you think that's a typical scene in Mallorca it really is time to have a rethink.

With virtually year-round sunshine and 325 miles of coastline, it's easy to see why the island has been one of Spain's major tourist destinations since the 1960s. But some travellers discovered the island long before then and this year the tourist board celebrates its 100th anniversary.

My first port of call was Port de Pollena, on the north-eastern side of the island. Wherever you go it's very easy to get around Mallorca as it's only 60 miles across at its widest point. Car hire is relatively inexpensive or there are plenty of guided excursions. Two wheels are another popular form of transport and in the spring, especially, you'll pass groups of bright lycra clad cyclists of all ages peddling their way up even the steepest mountain roads.

Hotel Illa d'Or is one of the Reis de Mallorca properties and, like the other hotels in the group, the perfect antidote for anyone who has endured holidays in characterless concrete clad hotels that all look the same.

Whether you want to reside in an Art Deco dome, a rustic retreat or a cool townhouse you'll find a property to suit. Illa d'Or has been enchanting visitors for the past 76 years and one of its illustrious early guests was Agatha Christie, who was apparently very particular about butter being served with every meal.

It provided the inspiration for the fictional hotel in her short story Problem in Pollensa, published in 1936, where she wrote: "They came to Pino d'Oro, a small hotel standing on the edge of the sea looking out over a view that in the misty haze of a fine morning had the exquisite vagueness of a Japanese print."

That afternoon we took the twisting road to the top of the cliffs at Mirador des Colomer, a lookout point three miles outside the town. Climbing steps hewn into the rugged landscape we watched, from a dizzying height, the impossibly blue water splash into rocky coves.

Many first-time visitors are surprised by Mallorca's varied landscape. The north coast is the place to go for really dramatic scenery, the south coast is dominated by the capital Palma and beautiful sandy bays whilst the contrasting tranquil interior is home to small villages, farmland, olive groves and almond orchards.

It was near Inca, in the heart of the countryside, that we stopped off at the Son Bordils estate to taste the locally produced wine. Visitors are always welcome, although if you're part of a large group it's best to call in advance. The vineyard was replanted in 1991 and produces ten varieties of quality red, white and rose wines, which you'll find in many local restaurants.

Although many people think of Mallorca as a destination to appeal to beach-lovers there are fantastic rural retreats and secluded romantic hideaways further inland. La Reserva Rotana is the perfect place if you want to relax and escape any crowds.

Set in the middle of a 500-acre working farm, it's popular with celebrities although discreet staff avoid any name-dropping. The 17th century manor house has been beautifully converted into a luxury hotel where original stone walls, works of art and sculptures are features in all the individually designed bedrooms. Whilst some might find the trophy room rather eerie and politically incorrect, the many plus points include first-rate cuisine and free unlimited golf on Rotana's tricky 9-hole course.

To get the best of both worlds you can always take a two-centre holiday and our trip ended in the elegant port city of Palma. When the massive cruise ships disgorge their passengers on one-day stopovers they tend to head straight for the big shopping streets around Plaa Major, and who can really blame them? But it really is worth straying off the well-trodden tourist route.

Tucked behind familiar fast food restaurants and well-known high street names is the Old Quarter. Get lost in the labyrinth of streets interspersed with washing hanging from windows and elegant courtyards displaying the wealth of their original owners. Stop off at the Ca'n Joan de S'aigo cafe in Calle de C'an Sanc, the oldest ice cream parlour in Mallorca that's now famous for wonderful hot chocolate and traditional pastries. If you've still got room then sample some typical Spanish tapas at Tast, in Calle Union, an inexpensive way of trying lots of different dishes. If you're not sure what to order just go up to the counter and point!

Punta Negra Resort, on the pretty Costa d'en Blanes peninsula, is a good choice if you don't want to be right in the centre of Palma. After spending the first night in the elegant restaurant we decided it was time to hit the town and a 10-minute taxi ride took us to the streets between Placa de Sa Llotja and Placa de la Reina, which are packed with restaurants, bars and clubs. It's well worth splashing out £7 on a cocktail at the wonderfully theatrical and over-the-top Abaco in Carrer Sant Joan.

But whatever you do, and however you choose to spell it, go to Mallorca and be prepared to see a different side of the island.