IT'S hard to think of Windsor Castle as a proper castle. Its stonework is too clean, its surroundings too polished it looks like a picture on the box of a giant jigsaw puzzle.

But, in fact, Windsor has been a proper castle since the Conquest, although William the Conqueror's first effort was merely a wooden keep.

Henry II tore down the wooden buildings and rebuilt the castle in stone much as we see it now although George IV was responsible for today's rather over-restored appearance.

The biggest blow to the castle in recent years was the devastating fire in 1992, which gutted many of the State Apartments. An exhibition at the beginning of the castle tour includes photographs of the immediate aftermath of the fire and the salvage work in progress giving a remarkable perspective on the extent and the cost of the restoration.

A tour through the State rooms gives a fascinating inside view of what happens at the big occasions, such as the investiture of the Knights of the Garter, plus you do get to see a selection of the Queen's private art collection and some of the royal family's stranger mementos, such as the lead bullet which killed Nelson at Trafalgar in 1805.

And the magnificence of St George's Chapel the burial place of many monarchs, including Henry VIII and Charles I is breathtaking.

We stayed at an altogether more comfortable castle The Castle Hotel, in the High Street, Windsor. This delightful hotel is at the hub of this bustling little town, yet a mere stroll from the royal residence, the River Thames and the expanse of the Great Park.

The Castle is part of the Heritage Hotels group, which is rightly proud of the charming 'country house' feel to its hotels, the attention to detail in the classically-furnished rooms and the high quality of service, which you would expect to find only in much more expensive establishments.

The Castle is one of the oldest hotels in Windsor and began life 450 years ago when it was known as The Mermaid Inn.

During the 18th century, it was one of the main stops for stage coaches travelling to London, and its grand facade has not changed since those times. Even now, this elegant, but cosy hotel has reminders of the past, such as the pre-war service bells above the main staircase.

Dinner at The Castle, at a table looking out onto the High Street and the Guildhall, is a sophisticated and relaxing experience, with innovative food served by extremely helpful staff. And the breakfasts, both traditional English and Continental, are enough to set you up for a day of sightseeing.

The Guildhall, with its delicate arcaded loggia designed by Sir Christopher Wren, has a fascinating tale to tell. When the town's authorities commissioned the building, they feared that Wren's original version, which was supported by only one line of columns, would be unstable. Wren duly added the central row but left a one-inch gap at the top of each column to prove his point.

A 10-minute stroll from the footbridge over the Thames brings you to Eton, a one-street village lined with antique and book shops, but famous the world over for Eton College, founded in 1440 by Henry VI for the free education of 70 paupers and now Britain's most aristocratic public school.