AS EAST Tennessee begins to secure its place on the outdoor adventure map, ALISON MASTERS finds out there’s more to Chattanooga than just a choo choo.
Whether it’s being pounded by waves in my newly-acquired surfing obsession, or hanging from a cliff-top, aided only by adrenaline (well, maybe a rope and harness too), I love the great outdoors.
This activity repertoire ensures I am instantly volunteered as the ideal candidate to find out what Chattanooga’s outdoor adventure scene has to offer.
Or maybe it’s my endless pleading which seals the deal.
Having shaken off my jet lag and turned months of excited anticipation into raring-to-go enthusiasm, I find myself on the bank of the Tennessee River.
As the sun pierces the early-morning mist hanging over the glassy water, I’m assured my trusty tandem kayak is very unlikely to capsize.
But if it does? “Just yell ‘Hey I fell out my boat, help’” says Marcus Hulsey, our instructor, reassuringly.
From the bass fishermen who greet us as we pass, to the heron which allows us remarkably close before taking flight, it seems everyone on the river is making the most of this beautiful morning.
As we paddle around Maclellan Island, I ask Ruthie Thompson, events coordinator for Outdoor Chattanooga, about outdoor life in the city.
“Outdoor Chattanooga is a division of the city’s parks and recreation department and it’s our job to connect people to the outdoors and promote this as a lifestyle,” she says.
A Chattanoogan's life centres around the river
Ruthie’s life, along with that of many other Chattanoogans, is very much centred round the river.
Not only does it provide a fantastic backdrop to leisure in the city, but it also plays a functional role.
Ruthie explains: “My husband and I can get in our kayaks and paddle along the river to our favourite Thai restaurant and get takeaway.”
For those who like their river trips with a little more speed, the Tennessee Aquarium’s River Gorge Explorer, a high-speed catamaran, is the perfect alternative and provides fantastic views of Chattanooga’s famous Lookout Mountain.
Heading west on the river towards the Nickajack dam, I find myself daydreaming about one day owning one of the postcard-perfect homes dotted along the riverbank, each with its own jetty.
Outdoor opportunities across the city
I realise very quickly why Chattanooga is not only becoming a popular place to live, but also a worthwhile stop on the tourist route through the southern states.
“People come to Chattanooga because of the outdoor opportunities,” climbing expert Dan Bowman from the Adventure Guild tells me, as I’m strapped into my harness at the foot of the 50ft Walnut Wall in Coolidge Park.
With some encouragement (and teasing) from my fellow adventurers and a lot of determination, I make it to the top and am left breathless, not just by the climb, but by the stunning view of the river and its south shore, where the contemporary aquarium building takes pride of place.
After an action-packed day, what I crave most is a good place to rest my weary limbs, and I find it at The Chattanooga Choo Choo Holiday Inn.
Expecting the usual clean and comfortable accommodation I’ve previously experienced from the well-known hotel chain, my expectations are exceeded when I check into a Victorian railway carriage.
These unusual hotel rooms, along with the symbolic, if fictional, Chattanooga Choo Choo steam engine, are situated (still on rails) behind the main hotel building, which was erected as a passenger station by Southern Railway in 1908.
The 75ft steel and concrete dome, which was a revolutionary piece of architecture at the time, can still be admired in the hotel lobby today.
The giant illuminated choo choo which adorns the outside of the building is also particularly helpful should you wander off the beaten track and need to find your way back!
Great places to eat
After all the exertion, my energy needs replenishing and you are spoilt for choice of great places to eat in Chattanooga.
Downtown, my favourite is the Blue Water Grille restaurant where the seafood they specialise in is brought in fresh from the Atlantic every day.
The Chilean sea bass with spicy apple pear relish and ginger mash is just what I need to round off one fun-filled day and prepare myself for another.
Next up, cycling. An 8-mile, flat, concrete path running along the riverbank to the Chickamauga Dam makes cycling, walking, skating – whatever you choose – so easy and enjoyable, and it’s right on the doorstep of urban Chattanooga.
Cycling in the warm sunshine, I am envious of the pleasant climate this area benefits from, while in the UK the cold, dark nights are drawing in.
Temperatures aside, however, one thing which guarantees I will return to Chattanooga is its people.
Never too busy to tell you a story or answer your questions, Chattanoogans are some of the most welcoming people I have encountered.
From the waitress who served me a traditional southern breakfast of gritz (like semolina mixed with porridge – it’s an acquired taste) at Porkers diner, to Bill Chapin, owner of the world-famous Rock City Gardens which we also visited, each one made my trip one to remember.
How to get there
America As You Like It (tel: 020 8742 8299)offers a five-night package to Chattanooga, including return flights on US Airways from Gatwick via Charlotte to Chattanooga, five days fully inclusive economy car hire and five nights room-only accommodation at the Holiday Inn Choo Choo from £685 per person. Call 01462 440784 for a free information pack or go to Chattanooga fun for details.
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