TRAVEL: Give me Sunshine

Here the beaches are white, sandy and spotless. Little bays with sun loungers, umbrellas and cafés are deliciously inviting, while the wilder beaches draw surfers, windsurfers and kite-boarders, who relish,br> tradewinds fresh from the Sahara Desert.

Although the word 'Fuerteventura' actually means 'strong wind', don't be put off.

The second biggest of the Canary Islands (to Tenerife) it enjoys temperatures in the mid to high 20s, even in the middle of winter.

The sun shines for about 3,000 hours a year and the sea is clearer than clear turquoise. Inland are marshes, sand dunes and dramatic volcanic landscapes.

It is just as well my toddler and I are happy on beaches, for my husband, the designated adventurer, swears he's gonna 'hang ten' on a surf board.

But first we check into the four-star Arena Hotel, about a 10-minute walk from the beach and Corralejo's main street. A poolside suite sounds grand, but it's actually a big room with lounge furniture, a perfectly adequate balcony at the front and decent-sized bathroom.

The room is clean and spacious, if not an obvious candidate for four stars. But, to put it in perspective, you can stay here all-inclusive for a week for less than you'd pay for a room for one night at The Dorchester.

The hotel has a toddler pool, two larger pools, lots of sun loungers (get up early to grab one) and the snack and drinks bar is never far away. It's quiet in the morning and noisy in the afternoon, as the entertainment crew organise games of water polo or volleyball.

You quickly fall in love with a melting pot of personalities around the pool. It really is a bit like that pub called Cheers - where everybody knows your name - and friendships form quickly over a cold beer or juice.

The all-inclusive package is true to its name: breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks and all drinks (alcoholic too) are served up without a penny leaving your pocket, which is handy as sea breezes and lots of activity work wonders for the appetite.

While there was always lots of variety at the thrice-daily buffet, some dishes did occasionally look a bit slapdash. But we never went hungry and fish lovers, especially, were in heaven.

Perhaps the Arena's trump card is the staff - from waiters to reception to housekeeping - for whom nothing is too much trouble. Some couples we met make the Arena an annual pilgrimage.

Somehow the staff always found the time and energy to entertain our little daughter - and even threw a mini party for her 18-month birthday, with a cake and a gift. Based on that touching gesture alone, we'd return to the Arena.

After a day or two relaxing at the hotel, it was time to explore.

The town of Corralejo is modern and its main drag packed with malls, bars, restaurants and shops (all promising the "lowest prices in town"

for beer, cigarettes, postcards and water toys) obviously serves its purpose for the hundreds of thousands of visitors each year.

Things look up, though, when you leave the crowds behind for the beach and port. Fabulous restaurants overlooking the sea offer excellent deals and tempting 'specials of the day'.

We passed blissful days lunching at La Marquesina. While my husband and daughter frolicked on the beach, I sipped a chilled white wine and munched on the best chilli squid I've found in years.

With car rental from around 30 euros a day, we were soon heading south from Corralejo towards the wide expanse of dunes - part of the Parque Natural de las Dunas de Corralejo - and the beaches along this east side of the island.

They are gloriously unspoiled, with uninterrupted views of the islands of Los Lobos. There are great spots for swimming, and if you want to go au naturel this is probably your spot.

Further south, the capital, Puerto del Rosario, is a bit on the industrial side, but the promenade around the harbour is worth a look.

Carrying on south we hit Caleta de Fuste. Nestled below an 18th century castle, this is another tourist haven of hotels, shops, boutiques, bars, cafés, restaurants and beaches. The weekly trade fair is renowned to have some great deals on leather goods.

For all the sights and shopping, beaches remain the jewel in this island's crown.

Playa de Sotavento is one of the most beautiful - stretching down the southern Jandia Peninsula coast. It is also pretty deserted, with just a scattering of bars with a bohemian surfing/kite-surfing/windsurfing vibe.

But most of our beach time was spent at Corralejo's Waikiki beach - about 20 minutes' walk from the hotel on the way to the town. It's a great place to learn surfing and kite-surfing from the pros.

Flexing his muscles, my husband handed over his 45 euros for a day's surfing instruction, itching to ride the waves. Private classes cost between 90-180 euros.

The lesson began on the beach: how to paddle out and how to get onto the board as the wave approaches. And it actually worked. Towards the end of the day, he stood upright on his board and surfed towards a well-deserved beer, as we looked and cheered.

With so many schools offering tuition in sea activities, it is worth comparing the widely available brochures before signing up.

Another activity worth the charge (30 euros) is the voyage by glass-bottomed boat to nearby Lanzarote, stopping briefly at the uninhabited island and nature reserve of Isla de los Lobos, a mile offshore.

We saw flying fish and all manner of other sea life on the hour-long crossing, which drops you off at Playa Blanca and picks passengers up again three hours later.

The strong winds of Fuerteventura will blow us back to Hotel Arena, sooner rather than later.

Key facts - Fuerteventura

:: Best for: Winter sun and beaches.

:: Time to go: November-April.

:: Don't miss: A surfing or kite-surfing lesson - and a glass-bottomed boat trip to Lanzarote and Los Lobos.

:: Need to know: The second largest island in the Canaries stages the Annual World Windsurfing Championships.

:: Don't forget: Fuerteventura has 150 beaches and more than 3,000 hours of sunshine a year.

Travel facts

Elizabeth Manson was a guest of lowscostholidays.com which offers seven nights' all-inclusive at the four star Hotel Arena in Corralejo from £259 in December, incl flights ex-Gatwick/ Manchester and transfers.

Ex-Glasgow from £289, ex-Prestwick £229.

Reservations: 0800 111 6271 or www.lowcostholidays.com.