Never underestimate the power of good staff, particularly in a pub.

The Yacht was already well-located and in possession of a stonking list of food and drink, but the guy behind the bar provided the extra spark to make the evening a nice one.

I’ll confess, I never found out his name, but he may be the most Gallic person I’ve ever met.

Small in stature, he was immaculately dressed and every one of his gestures had a little dramatic flourish. The way he looked over his circular-framed glasses gave even ordering a sense of conspiracy or naughtiness.

Never before has choosing between chips or mash felt so loaded with significance.

It took a few seconds to warm to him, but not long – just until he unleashed a huge grin. His ambivalence towards whether or not we paid was fun too.

While the barman was the garnish, the meat of the place was hard to fault too.

The Yacht manages to be simultaneously bang in the middle of historic Greenwich yet hidden down a dark little alley.

The Trafalgar Tavern on the corner of the street undoubtedly has more ostentatious frontage and better situation. Had I not already agreed to meet a chum I may have been distracted by its obvious charms.

I’m glad I wasn’t because The Yacht may be muted inside and out but it is comfortable, a little bit posh and very tidy.

The decor is all tasteful red and brown, with a false book shelf occupying one wall. Understated is a perfect form for the decoration, which essentially serves as a frame for the vista along the far side.

A seat by the window is seldom more delightful and you watch the murky waters of the Thames lapping at the shore, empty clippers float by and the sore-thumb on the landscape that is the O2 arena.

The bar stocks an impressive selection of drinks on tap, including an exclusive Westerham ale, a Meantime, Estrella Damm, Sambrooks’ Wandle Ale and a handful of others.

Food is also impressive. The menu contains some good homely food, slightly tweaked.

My chicken pie was actually a chicken, chardonnay and pancetta pie. In truth, it was all the better for extra touch.

Of course, it all comes at a price but you are in a swanky boozer in one of the country’s prime tourist spots. In that context £4.20 a pint and £9.99 for pie and mash is to be expected if not welcomed.

The Yacht, 5 Crane Street, Greenwich

How it rated:

Decor*** Tasteful but the river’s the star

Atmosphere ** Subdued and touristy

Staff ***** Friendly, efficient and quirky

Drink ***** Impressive range

Food **** Very good

Price ** It all comes at a price