You know a pub takes its beer seriously when the lager is kept out of sight underneath the bar, like a self-imposed philistine prohibition.

And the contraband gnat’s p*** isn’t any old mass-produced nonsense that One Inn the Wood ought to be ashamed of, either.

It’s Chapel Down’s Curious Brew - one of the world’s best lagers, according to the International Beer Challenge. And it’s brewed in Tenterden with Champagne Yeast.

And that’s just the stuff they don’t shout about.

The One Inn the Wood is the borough’s first micropub and a totally different prospect to most pubs.

No doubt, some will find its back-to-basics, local approach to drinking beer too much.

But it serves a completely different purpose to Petts Wood’s other two pubs - The Sov (get battered and have a burger on the cheap) or The Daylight (somewhere in between The Sov and the One).

This micropub shuns electronic entertainment and music – there’s shove ha’penny, card games and the like if you need entertainment – and a ban of talking on your mobile.

Consequently, the atmosphere is conversational and relaxed.

Don’t expect to find the old regulars behind the bar, either. Fosters, Kronenbourg and other fizz has no place in the One Inn the Wood. In its stead is an ever-changing roster of local craft brews.

When I visited, the Canterbury Wantsum brewery was on the menu. I sampled the 1381, a light summer ale (£3.20) which slipped down a treat in the sun.

You won’t pick up a dinner, but there are luxury bar snacks – locally made, of course.

Dennis of Bexley’s pork pies (cheese in the middle!) and sausage rolls are worth shouting about, though the sausage roll could have been warm, and they are on the pricey side at £5 and £4.

The lovely chutney that comes with them is made in Petts Wood, though.

A selection of Kent cheeses is available too.

Owner Barry is totally passionate about his project and that is clear from the commitment to his vision for what it should be.

He has even managed to make the most of a difficult layout (the barmaid had to go through a door out the back to pour our drinks), with a minimalist wood and blackboards supplemented by a giant photo of a pretty woodland on one wall, brightening the place up.

One Inn the Wood, Petts Wood Road, Petts Woo

How it rated:

Staff ***** People you can chat to!

Decor **** Pleasant but awkward layout

Atmosphere **** A refreshing change but it’ll depend who’s in

Drink ***** Unbeatable. One for enthusiasts (and local)

Food ***** A slender range, but tasty (and local)

Price **** Reasonably priced beer. Food, a little costly.